Yaumatei
Yaumatei is one of those Kowloon back corners that many long-term Hong Kong residents often overlook – or dismiss. Only a short distance away from Tsim Sha Tsui’s tourist glitz, brand-name emporia and omnipresent touts, another - altogether more intriguing, colourful Kowloon - awaits exploration, appreciation and enjoyment.
Yaumatei is home to the famous Tin Hau Temple – sometimes referred to as the “Temple of Temple Street.” This historic structure dates - with numerous reconstructions - from the 1820s. Along with the banyan-tree shaded square in front, the Tin Hau Temple has been a key focus of Yaumatei community life for decades.
Like Tin Hau shrines elsewhere in Hong Kong, the Yaumatei temple was originally located on the coastline, as befits a deity worshipped by sea-farers and fisher-folk; it is now marooned over a kilometer inland due to successive waves of land reclamation.
Less well-known to outsiders is the temple’s wider social welfare role within Yaumatei’s Chinese community, and its long-standing connections to health-care organizations such as the Kwong Wah Hospital – the Kowloon-side partner of Hong Kong’s historic Tung Wah Hospital in Western district.
Along the way we will see the historic Yaumatei police station, learn something about the historical development of the typhoon shelter and how the daily lives of its “floating” inhabitants have greatly changed over the past half-century. East of Nathan Road, Yaumatei changes character, and this open, expansive green-belt side of Kowloon will also be explored and its continued existence put into historical context.
Shanghai Street and Reclamation Streets are vital adjuncts to the local restaurant trade; every possible variety of cooking pot, wok, cleaver and kitchen utensil can be found here – at very reasonable prices. Nearby, the Yaumatei Theatre, the oldest cinema in Kowloon, has been spared from demolition and is being renovated for other uses.
Locally-famous for decades, Yaumatei’s gwo-laan, where most of Hong Kong’s fresh fruit is traded, is an essential part of life and not to be missed. While the gwo-laan is at its bustling, noisy best in the small hours, there is still much of interest to be seen by mid-morning. Surviving old buildings nearby provide a home to vanishing occupations and businesses – legal, tolerated and otherwise - will all be explored along the way north through Kowloon.
Please note: All walks require appropriate footwear for walking. Please remember to carry water. We also suggest insect repellent, sunscreen, hat and an umbrella.
Meeting Point:
Exit A Jordan MTR Station, inside the station.
Finish Point:
Around Waterloo Road near the Kwong Wah Hospital
Price:
$325HKD per person for a scheduled walk. For private group booking enquiries please contact us.