Shau Kei Wan
Shau Kei Wan, at the eastern end of Hong Kong Island, is one of Hong Kong’s oldest village settlements. On this walk we will learn something of its very varied mixed history, with connections to quarrying, fisheries, and strategic defence considerations.
Building stone was quarried here for export around the Pearl River region in pre-British times, and the remains of old quarry-faces can still be seen at Ah Kung Ngam. Reliable employment opportunities attracted many Hakka migrants from the East River districts to Hong Kong; many of their descendants still live in Shau Kei Wan. Swiss-German missionary groups were involved in the conversion of many Hakka settlers to Christianity, and under their aegis, many Hakka later migrated to British North Borneo (modern Sabah) – a little-known connection to Hong Kong.
Along with quarrying, Shau Kei Wan was best-known for its sizeable fishing fleet; during the nineteenth century large catches were landed and then salted for export into the interior, where dried and salted fish formed a major source of protein in village diets. Fishing has been in terminal decline in Shau Kei Wan for decades – as in the rest of Hong Kong – due to massive overfishing since the 1950s. Nevertheless, the typhoon anchorage is still “home port” to a sizeable fleet of deep-sea trawlers who stay away for weeks at a time; Shau Kei Wan’s wholesale fish-market is extremely colourful in the early hours of the morning but mostly packed up by noon.
Next to the typhoon shelter, the Tam Kung Temple has long been a noted local landmark. We will also visit the historic Tin Hau Temple, formerly on the waterfront and now marooned far inland, some little-explored nearby backstreet areas, and one of Hong Kong Island’s last remaining squatter settlements at Ah Kung Ngam, centred around the tiny Yuk Wong Temple.
Located at the eastern approaches to Victoria Harbour, Shau Kei Wan was vital for strategic military purposes from the early years of British settlement. From the 1860s onwards an extensive complex of barracks and gun batteries were built on the hillsides and cliffs overlooking the Lyemun Strait – the narrowest point of entrance into Victoria Harbour.
Most old buildings still remains – some of the complex is found within the Hong Kong-Government Lei Yue Mun Holiday Park, and others form part of the Museum of Coastal Defence located in the nineteenth century Lyemun Redoubt.
We will explore the Museum at the end of the walk.
Please note: This walk requires some physical stamina, including some up-hill walking and stairs.
All walks require appropriate footwear for walking. Please remember to carry water. We also suggest insect repellent, sunscreen, hat and an umbrella.
Meeting Point:
Inside Shau Kei Wan MTR Station, under the sign for Exit A.
Finish Point:
At the Museum of Coastal Defence, Tung Hei Road, Shau Kei Wan
Price:
$325HKD per person for a scheduled walk. For private group booking enquiries please contact us.